The Best Dishes Eater Houston Ate in October

Here’s where to try a modern rendition of Texas’s official state bread, Moroccan bastilla, Puerto Rican street food, and a classic chicken Parmesan

There are more than 12,000 restaurants in Houston. With at least 145 languages spoken across town and communities bringing compelling fare from regions like south Louisiana, the West Coast, and countries like Mexico, Syria, and the Philippines, Space City has no shortage of outstanding food. Check back monthly to see the best things Eater Houston’s editor ate this month.

Pan de campo at Credence

Chef Levi Goode’s first solo live-fire restaurant in Memorial City celebrates some of Texas’s turn-of-the-century cuisine, including this diner-favorite rendition of the Lone Star State’s official bread. Once considered a cowboy’s version of flatbread made from a simple assembly of baking powder, flour, and shortening, Credence’s sweet and savory take on pan de campo is meant to be a starter but has quickly become one of the menu’s highlights. Cooked over an open flame, the bread is topped with smoked mozzarella, fennel sausage, and Tuscan kale for added crunch, plus a drizzle of Texas honey that melds all of the flavors together in a remarkable way. It could put some of the city’s best pizza to shame.

Brittany Britto Garley

B’Stilla and lamb shank at Mi Luna

Mi Luna’s return to Houston — this time, in the bustling Montrose Collective — means some of diners’ favorite Spanish tapas are back but some of the most unique standouts include the dishes that stem from owner Youssef Nafaa’s Moroccan and Moor-ish heritage. The B’Stilla — traditionally, bastilla or pastilla — also makes a welcome return, and it’s as good as ever. Egg and chicken slow-cooked in an array of spices is combined with a buttery mix of cinnamon and almonds and then wrapped and baked in crispy filo dough for a sweet and savory flavor bomb. The slow-braised, spice-laden lamb shank, cooked with quince, cinnamon, and honey, and served in a tagine, is another showstopper.

Caesar salad cups and pulpo at Maven Coffee + Cocktails

Never underestimate the power and allure of a Caesar salad, especially if you can eat it with your hands. At this coffee shop and cocktail lounge, cups of gem lettuce are layered in piquillo peppers relish, boquerones, Caesar dressing, and shredded manchego cheese, and eaten like a taco, which might be the best new way to devour a salad. The pulpo, tender octopus topped with Spanish paprika and chives and served with roasted potatoes, and the steak au poivre, paired with fondant potatoes, are perfect follow-ups.

Chicken Parmesan with spaghetti and cresta di gallo at Milton’s

Sometimes, the classics just hit different, and at Local Foods Benjy Levitt’s newest Italian American restaurant in Rice Village, that’s the case. The chicken Parmesan stands up to its layers of cheese and sauce, remaining memorably crispy, and pairs well with the side of spaghetti, which is simple yet loaded with great garlicky flavor. Other musts include the cresta di gallo, which comes surrounded by an aerated parmesan cream sauce made with toasted yeast and sherry vinegar and a topping of punchy pickled and roasted mushrooms. It’s a pleasant blast from the past, having once been served at the Pass & Provisions, which Local Goods Group creative director and chef Seth Siegel-Gardner previously co-owned.

Brittany Britto Garley

Carne frita and tostones and Vietnamese betel leaf beef at Traveler’s Cart

One of Montrose’s newest restaurants delivers a massive menu of street food from around the world. Executive chef Miguel Torres, a native of Puerto Rico, offers one of Houston’s best renditions of carne frita — fried just enough to offer a crispiness that doesn’t detract from the full pork flavor and served with a side of tostones that must be dipped into the creamy combination of mayonnaise and ketchup. The Vietnamese betel leaf-wrapped beef, which calls to owner Thy Mitchell’s heritage, is another fun dish to eat with your hands. Swaddle the beefy morsels and pineapple-papaya-carrot slaw in the accompanying bib lettuce and thin noodle patties, and dip into the fish sauce for added tang. The Tiger shrimp pad Thai is another hit.

Brittany Britto Garley

The Best Desserts

Last but never least, because dessert, too, is an art.

Coconut cream pie at Credence

Word is that Credence makes this coconut cream pie in a massive sheet cake pan, layering it with a slightly salty graham cracker foundation and a cheesecake-like base before it’s generously dolloped with torched meringue and sprinkled with toasted coconut flakes. The dish is dangerously light and balanced enough to fool any diner into eating the entire lengthy slice.

Brittany Britto Garley

Lava cake at Maven Coffee + Cocktails

Chef Nicolás “Nico” G. Baizan de Aldecoa says the inspiration behind this decadent dessert stems from his childhood love of Dominoes’s lava cake, but he “elevates” it at Maven. Pierce into the warm cake and watch as the fudge oozes out, mixing perfectly with remnants of the delicate scoop of buttermilk ice cream. Be warned: Though Maven’s dishes are largely family-style, this one feels more … personal. I do not advise sharing.

Chocolate sticky toffee pudding at Traveler’s Cart

Even in its desserts, Traveler’s Cart traverses the world with mango sticky rice infused with ube for added sweetness and purple flair, and a flaky Greek apricot souffra. But this chocolate sticky toffee pudding kept my spoon reaching for more. Served warm, this cakey goodness made with bittersweet chocolate is topped with chocolate toffee sauce and cinnamon, with a side of Madagascar vanilla soft-serve that should be scooped up with every bite.

Brittany Britto Garley