Tacos Al Carbon Specialist Little Rey Opens in Houston
This is the first Houston outpost of the Atlanta restaurant
Northern Mexican outpost Little Rey opened just near River Oaks this week in Houston. Atlanta restaurateur Ford Fry’s expanding chain is known for its street-style tacos, salsas, wood-roasted “chicken al carbon,” and other dishes inspired by flavors and cooking traditions prevalent in northern Mexico.
“The menu itself is based around chicken,” Fry says. “We know that it works great, we enjoy cooking with it, and it’s what people love.”
At the first Houston location, the Houston native and Superica owner says he hopes to celebrate the landscape of the city’s diverse dining scene and provide hospitality and warmth to guests and team members alike. (Leadership at Fry’s other Atlanta restaurant, Marcel, has been accused of misconduct, reported by Eater Atlanta. The restaurateur declined to comment on the allegations, citing ongoing legal instruction.)
Courtesy of Rocket Farms Restaurants
The 7,000-square-foot space features a patio that’s ideal for al fresco dining and margarita drinking. Designed in partnership with Michael Hsu Office of Architecture, the location aims to highlight the region through rustic art pieces and decor with rose pink, deep blue and soft sage hues, and vintage, Mexican-inspired hand-painted signage and memorabilia. Little Rey boasts a menu that’s familiar to fans of the Atlanta location, including tortillas made in-house, salsas, and al carbon tacos — many prepared over one of the restaurant’s three wooden cooking apparatuses that imbue more smoky flavor to meats and other plates.
“It gives a really awesome flavor to the chicken that you don’t find that much in Houston,” said chef Bobby Matos, who will work with Fry at the Houston location.
Texas favorites, including migas tacos, are also on the menu. Regional flavors and techniques are demonstrated in the ever-popular pancakes served with buttermilk syrup, and Little Rey’s whole, bone-in chicken al carbon, which is served daily. There are sweet treats to order: a range of soft serve flavors, such as tres leches and salty cajeta with fried peanuts, are just a few of the cooler tastes available to beat the Houston heat. “Our structure enables people to order a few different small things and not break the bank,” said Matos. “You can come in and get a single taco and full stack of pancakes and walk out of here spending $15 or less.”
Andrew Thomas Lee
Beverage director Eduardo Porto Carreiro will curate an evolving bar program. Frozen margaritas and margaritas on the rocks will be abundant, as will a revolving selection of house-made agua frescas, cerveza, and local and regional craft ales.
Whole chicken and other plates are available to-go. Visit the outdoor walk-up window, emblazoned with the words “Uno Mas,” to order another margarita, or to pick up grab-and-go takeout orders. Little Rey is located at 2345 Mid Lane, just between the Shops at Highland Village and River Oaks District.
