Maison Chinoise – Peking Duck with Promise

I wasn't expecting to like Maison Chinoise. I'm not crazy about sister restaurants Toulouse and Lombardi. And Dallas concepts generally dont seem to land in Houston. But maybe low expectations make for happy dining. My meal at Chinoise on its second night of service exceeding expectations.

There were kinks, sure. But they were minor, and they were immediately addressed. And they didn't distract from the pretty room outfitted with throwback fringe lampshades and the well executed food. Spicy pork wontons were great. Brussels sprouts were solid. Peking duck was some of the best I've had in Houston.

And the nice thing about Chinoise is that it's the Chinese food we all know, love, and crave in a setting that is a little special with a bar that delivers solid cocktails. This is what Ben Berg was after with Benny Chow. But that concept felt forced and Las Vegas-ified. Chinoise is less showy and more refined, and I expect it will settled in well in River Oaks.

There are things not to love. The Brussels were designed for Instagram – sent out with a flambe adding nothing other than gimmick. Same goes for the fact that the duck was served with a cup of dry ice. Eye catching, sure — but a cheap party trick. This isn't wholly authentic Chinese cuisine but I think it's quality enough to stand on its own. I'm old school that way, though. I know most people these days want a little razzle dazzle.

I'll give this spot a few weeks and I'll be back to test it out again. First impression is favorable.