The Best Dishes Eater Houston Ate in July

Where to find Indian-style birria tacos, the most refreshing crudo and cold noodle dishes, puzzlingly good desserts, and more

There are more than 12,000 restaurants in Houston. With at least 145 languages spoken across town and communities bringing compelling fare from regions like south Louisiana and the West Coast, and countries like Mexico, Syria, and the Philippines, there’s no shortage of outstanding food in Space City. Check back monthly to see the best things Eater Houston’s editor ate this month.

Flounder crudo at Azumi

Before I dove into an assortment of fatty slices of bluefin tuna, nigiri, and hot dishes, like the also-noteworthy fried rice, a bright flounder crudo served as the perfect palate opener at River Oak’s newest sushi restaurant. Delicate slivers of Hirame flounder, flown in from Japan, are nestled in a refreshing pear foam with a punch of ume-truffle sauce and thin rolls of plums for a wonderful balance of tart, sweet, and umami. 4444 Westheimer Road, Suite G130, River Oaks, 77027.

Brittany Britto Garley

The beetroot at Doris Metropolitan

Flame-grilled steaks are typically the draw at this Israeli steakhouse, but during a recent visit, it was the beetroot appetizer that captivated me. A whole beet that’s rendered supple through a sous-vide cook and packed with cheese and a pistachio filling gets plated with a goat cheese creme fraiche, making for a mouthful of warm, earthy, nutty, and rich flavor. 2815 South Shepherd Drive, Montrose, 77098.

The tomato somen salad and the Katami salad at Katami

Choosing just one “best” dish from chef Manabu Horiuchi’s newest restaurant in the Harlow District proves difficult. His reputation at Kata Robata precedes itself, so it’s no surprise that the sashimi, nigiri, and wagyu selection is spectacular. The iconic foie gras PB&J milk bread is the transition any diner would want from dinner to dessert; the smoked cod offers perfectly balanced flavors. It was unexpected, then, when a duo of salads at the start of the meal made the lasting impression. The Katami salad, composed of greens, radish, pickled tomato, crunchy onion and togarashi, crushed walnuts, and a carrot onion dressing is the salad you want on a hot summer day. The tomato somen salad, similarly refreshing, is a simple combination of cold noodles and delicate Campari tomatoes. Tossed in a honey soy and topped with shredded shiso and sesame seeds, this dish is one to come back for. 2701 West Dallas Street, Harlow District, 77019.

Fish moilee and the nihari birria tacos at Musaafer

On Musaafer’s a la carte menu, the nihari birria taco reigns supreme. Tender, seasoned lamb and “Indian cheddar” (likely Amul cheese) are layered in a corn tortilla and served alongside a deeply spiced nihari consomme — an unexpected twist on a Tex-Mex favorite. I also tried the restaurant’s newest tasting menu, from which the fish moilee was the standout. The creamy coconut milk base, made more complex with a blend of spices, permeates the buttery seabass and madras onions. Choose a vessel. Whether it be the garlic naan or the basmati rice, you’ll want to sop up every bite. 5115 Westheimer Road, Suite C-3500, the Galleria area, 77056.

Crispy Tiger Prawns at Street to Kitchen

Somewhat like the shrimp rendition of softshell crab, this seasonal Thai dish, featured as a special on Chef G’s menu, uses jumbo prawns fried with their shells (and heads) still on. (Fortunately, because of the season, the shells are delicate enough for teeth to crunch through.) To complete the dish, the prawns are dipped in a sauce that touches on all the signature Thai notes (bitter, salty, sweet, sour, and spicy) and served with a refreshing handful of herbs, as well as a heap of rice. 3401 Harrisburg Boulevard, Suite G, Second Ward, 77003.

Brittany Britto Garely

The Taco de Rojas at Tatemó

With a tasting menu that remolds each season and a recent shift to focusing on seafood for summer, Tatemó’s taco de rojas may be short-lived. So get this while you can: Wagyu stuffed with smoked shallot and rajas is dolloped with peanut puree and assembled on a handmade tortilla. The cherry salsa negra is the literal cherry on top — the hit of acid and spice that ties it all together. 4740 Dacoma Street, Suite F, Spring Branch area, 77092.

The Best Desserts

Last but never least, because dessert, too, is an art.

Matchamisu and marquise at Azumi

Made up of Peruvian dark chocolate with a sesame tuile that adds a nutty bite, as well as a side of umami-loaded Shiro miso gelato, Azumi’s rich marquise dessert will satisfy anyone looking for a chocolate fix. The matcha-infused tiramisu, layered with a mascarpone mousse and a bright passion fruit jam, offers a lighter dessert option. 4444 Westheimer Road, Suite G130, River Oaks, 77027.

Apple bread pudding at Katami

A cross between a crisp apple pie and a molten bread pudding, this very American dessert isn’t one you might expect at a Japanese restaurant, but I wasn’t mad at it. Served warm and topped with vanilla bean ice cream, it’s a comforting end to any meal at Katami. 2701 West Dallas Street, Harlow District, 77019.

Brittany Britto Garley

Coconut sago and the passion fruit cheesecake at Molihua

Desserts here are fun. Diners get to scoop an uber-rich Brillat Savarin cheesecake from the skin of passion fruit and pair it with bites of caramelized banana and a banana-passion fruit sorbet. Meanwhile, the delightful coconut sago dessert requires breaking through a sugary tuile topping to dunk into a creamy yuzu and pineapple sorbet with swollen sago — a sharp contrast from the chunks of lime financier and spiced pineapple that almost buzz on the tongue. 7118 Bertner Avenue, Medical Center, 77030.

Brittany Britto Garley